SEKOMANDI IKAT

This Sekomandi Ikat are found in Sa'dan To 'Barana - Toraja Utara- South Sulawesi. Sekomandi Mostly found in Kalumpang. Kalumpang is one of the sub-districts in Mamuju Regency. in other words, tholds a wealth of cultural and artistic traditions of hundreds of years.  In clarify, they still preserved today.

One of the traditions that is still inherent in the Kalumpang tribe is the weaving tradition. For Example, the Sekomandi traditional ikat weaving in the village of Kondobulo. And this woven motif from Kalumpang is known as one of the oldest motifs in the world.

In ancient times, apart from being made for self-interest. For example, the traditional clothes of woven ikat also became a high-value medium of exchange which was usually bartered with several pets. Such as, buffalo or pigs.

The uniqueness of this Kalumpang Ikat woven fabric is in the color pattern and fabric structure. All the work done by hand and / or woven using traditional tools.

MAKING PROCESS OF SEKOMANDI IKAT

It takes weeks or even months to produce a single woven cloth at the Sekomandi Ikat. The Kalumpang Ikat Weaving process is carried out in several stages.Firstly, spinning of yarn from cotton tree. Which is, usually taken from cotton plants planted by villagers in the Kalumpang region.

Secondly, tying the bundle of yarn which is one of the techniques before dyeing the yarn to be woven.

Further, thus stage is a fairly long stage. Namely the coloring stage. In this coloring process, first of all, the application of color adhesive which consists of chilies as the main ingredient / candlenut. For Example, galangal, ginger and kluwak. Meanwhile, an ash bath made of palli tree or a type of bark is also made.

After the soaking water is taken and mixed with the color adhesive, the color adhesive mixture is then applied to the thread until it is absorbed. Further, the next step is the threads are dried in the sun. Ussually, it takes around  30 days to strengthen the color and prevent them from fading.

The thread that has been given a base color is usually creamy yellowish-Brass in color. And he said, the threads were then tied in groups of about 12 threads tied to a tool called a Katadan.

Katadan is a tool to hold the thread when tied so that it is neat. And the knotted thread is what will later form the fabric pattern.

In addition, to create certain motifs the weaver has not previously made patterns or sketches on the threads tied to the Katadan.

MOTIFS AND PATTERNS

However, the making of patterns and sketches is the result of the weaver's imagination. The unique thing is that the motives that are made are not just any motives, but the motifs have different types and have meaning. Several types of ikat motifs at Sekomandi are Ba'ba diata Motif, Lele Sepu Ulu Karua lepo, Ulu Karua Barinni 'Pori dappu, Tosso' Balekoan, Tonoling, and Toboalang motifs.

After the motif is formed, then the red stain of the Noni wood root is done, the patterned thread is cooked then washed and then dried in the sun to dry after drying then put back into Katadan to be tied a second time. And

The next process is giving the black and blue coloring of Tarun leaves and Bilatte leaves which are also cooked and then dried and put back into Katadan to be tied several times.

The last stage is the process of weaving the fabric. At the initial stage, the threads have been boiled. And given the color untied with extra care. The goal is that the thread arrangement and color arrangement are not chaotic. The threads are tied one by one and then attached to the loom and ready to be woven. Description Source : Kompasiana.

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